Letter from China: Smelly, sweet, and now ubiquitous: durian's rapid growth in China

by Guo Yifan

NANNING, Feb. 21 (Xinhua) -- Whenever a news story about durians pops up in China, the conversation inevitably divides into two camps: durian lovers and durian haters. For some, this tropical fruit is a beloved delicacy, while its pungent aroma is enough to send others running for the hills.

It wasn't until I grabbed a durian sandwich during my 8 a.m. shift one morning that I truly realized how deeply this delicious fruit has become a part of my life.

I live and work in Nanning, the capital of the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region in south China. Here, on the doorstep of Southeast Asia -- the region where durian is grown -- I've had a front-row seat to its meteoric rise in popularity. Once a rare and pricey delicacy, durian is now a common fruit found everywhere, not only in its natural form but also as the key ingredient in many products.

This surge in demand has sparked a wave of market innovation. Cafes and restaurants in Nanning have gotten creative, incorporating durian into everything from pizzas to stuffed buns. In neighboring Guangdong Province, a restaurant chain specializing in durian chicken hotpot has gone viral online, and durian-flavored burgers have become a social media sensation.

But the influence of durian extends far beyond the kitchen. Its distinct aroma, coupled with its purported skincare benefits, has inspired innovations like durian essential oil, face masks and perfumes.

Growing up in Shijiazhuang, an inland city in northern China, I never imagined I would develop such a fondness for durian. My childhood was filled with locally grown apples and pears, and the occasional banana was a luxury due to the high costs of shipping to our region.

The first time I ever saw a fresh durian was in a family sitcom called "Home with Kids." I was in primary school at the time, and I vividly remember a scene in which the mother and daughter shared an entire durian, sneaking bites while the father, who couldn't stand the smell, was out of the room. Back then, durian was a mysterious, exotic fruit -- something you could hardly find, and if you did, it was incredibly expensive.

Fast forward to today, and I can hardly believe how things have changed. The fruit which once symbolized rarity and luxury is now as common as any other in the supermarket, and affordable enough for most families to enjoy.

As a journalist in Nanning, I've had the unique opportunity to witness this transition firsthand. Six years ago, I attended my first China-ASEAN Expo and was stunned by the vast range of durian products on display: candies, ice creams, and various other snacks. Each highlighted how this once-exotic fruit had been embraced by Chinese consumers.

One day, I met local fruit seller Zhang Lichun at a supermarket. She told me that during peak seasons, her store's daily durian sales could reach as much as 100,000 yuan (about 13,950 U.S. dollars). "Durian is no longer just a special-occasion treat for wealthy families. It has become an everyday fruit, especially for younger consumers," she said.

Zhang explained that just a decade ago, durians were mostly imported by air. But now, thanks to advances in cold-chain logistics and soaring consumer demand, transportation options have expanded to include land and sea freight services.

These logistical improvements have made durians commonplace, even in my hometown. A friend from Shijiazhuang who visited Nanning was amazed to find that the prices here were nearly identical to those of northern online stores. She had assumed that since Nanning is so close to Southeast Asia, durians would be much cheaper.

China's continuous efforts to facilitate trade with ASEAN countries, including the construction of the China-ASEAN Free Trade Area and the implementation of the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP), have opened its doors further to durian producers.

China remains the world's largest importer and biggest consumer of durians. According to customs data, the country imported a record 1.56 million tonnes of fresh durians last year, valued at 6.99 billion U.S. dollars.

Most of the fresh durians in the Chinese market come from Thailand and Vietnam, though imports from Malaysia and the Philippines are growing. Durian lovers like me can now enjoy fresh fruit year-round.

And with its rise in popularity, it's clear that whether you love or hate durian, it has now become a familiar part of daily life. From the bustling streets of Nanning to the trendiest cafes of Beijing, durian is no longer just a fruit. It's a symbol of how Chinese tastes are expanding, becoming more adventurous, and embracing global flavors. Enditem

(Edited by Cheng Lu)